I have a document that shows how to add your textures or colors to the program.
I'll try attaching it to this post.
If you have the program known as "MSWord" you can open it and view it.
If it doesn't work for you, let me know and I'll see if I can convert it to pdf for all to see and use.
Can that be done?
I haven't tried it.
There should be some objects in your library already.
Did you look in 1-5-1 and couldn't find any?
Jim Rogers
Markus:
Thanks for the invitation.
I've summited one, so far.
Where can we see the pictures that were picked for the previous calenders?
I see them in the gallery, but which ones made it?
Also, where can we get the new calender? for 2007? when it's done.
User defined date format in D-CAM, for us who don't use 9-10-2006 but use 10-9-2006.
I thought I had requested this some years ago.....but I can't see to find the email where Wil Dancy of Dietrich's NA asked for my date format input.
It would seem that if we can open a file to change the name of a timber being shown in 2-1-1 inside STABART.frg that it should be easy enough to open a file where "#makedate# is defined and move "display day" and " display month" from one position to another.
It doesn't seem like it's rocket science to move the display label from one spot to another......
I hope I won't have to wait another two years for this, simple change......
Is there a way for us in the USA to edit our programs so that the date creation automatic function will display the date the way we use it here?
This would be very helpful if they could do this.
One way I work around this is to open the processes box on the post and modify the housing and the mortise to the shorter sizes and then it will look right......
We call these timbers "purlins"....... or purlin for one......
Purlins can go above the rafter plane or within the rafter plane when drawn in D-CAM using 211 commands.
Section 320 has some purlin names, also 330 (in the English version).
Over here most timber names are based on the location in the frame.
Hope this helps.
Der_planer:
The kaapstander is, I believe, Dutch for capstan. That is another name used for this wooden tool. One encyclopedia said when the drum/axle is vertical it is a capstan, when the drum/axle is horizontal it is a windlass.....
Same machine, same process to winch in line/rope/wire but two different names.
The text I entered is a exact copy of the picture which is now available in the gallery under "free-construction"......
Thanks for your help.....
Some time ago, I was inspired to create a windlass and gin pole to use in timber framing.
I have done so recently.
There are some photos of the research and the completed project in the gallery, and should be approved by the moderator shortly.
The windlass will need some minor improvement to make it function properly. We hope to complete these improvements this weekend.
It was fun to create this and using D-CAM made it much easier to do.
One of the photos has a caption and I was wondering of the Dietrich's community could help me translate it in English?
Here is the text from the photo:
Tekening 94:
De kaapstander:
Nasst het lastige, per omgang tweemaal, overstappen had de kaapstander nog het nadeel van het zich om de spil verplaatsen van het daarom geslagen part van de loper. Om de loper naar zijn beginstand te kunnen terugschuiven moest de trek op de loper, als deze zijn uiterste stand had bereikt, worden overgenomen door het aan de kaapstander bevestigde seistouw dat dan met een stoppersteek aan de loper weerd geboden (seizen = binden, het seizen bij de kaapstander werd ook verschieten of vervaren genoemd. Het seistouw moest dunner zijn dan de loper). Bij rondloping met zon en rechtsgangige winding om de spil zal de loper omhoogklimmen. Bij het seizen zal hij gemakkelijk naar de beginstand kunnen vallen.
Zou men linksgangig windern dan zal hij naar beneden bewegen. Daarna zou het meer moeite kosten hem naar de hoge beginstand te brenge.
Could you let me know what language this is also?
Thanks in advance....
Thanks for the info.....
What is the standard normal size of a jpeg attactment for having pictures viewable within a post on this forum?
Pixel size?
File size?
What are the limits?
Thank you.
About the time tracker idea, again, my other program has an "idle" button that can be set to a specific time. That is if the program is idle for 5 minutes the clock stops automatically, and starts again automatically once the program is used again. And you can adjust this "idle" time to whatever value you want.
Jim Rogers
A new and helpful item would be to have a time tracker attached to the program.
What it would do is start keeping track of time when you open a project and keep track of the time spent working on it.
They have these in other CAD progams and are great.
Recently working with the latest updated version this work-around doesn't seem to always work.
What I've had to do to overcome this again is to delete the tenon all together and then re-insert the tenon.
Doing this will establish two tenon and two mortises.
Hope this helps.
Jim Rogers
Jim Rogers Timber Designs
Georgetown, MA, USA
Recently while updating a project or modifying that frame drawn, I had a problem with re-connecting joints.
What I did was I changed the shape of a post from a jowl or gun-stock post to a straight post. Then I needed the braces connecting to the old post to connect to the new post. Using 317 form a new connection worked. Well sort of. What would happen is that it would connect to the post but then the program would remove the connection to the beam on the other end of the brace. If I went to the beam end and made a new connection using 317 it would remove the connection to the post. This was very frustrating. I opened the process box on the brace and reprocessed both tenons but this didn't help.
But after reprocessing and forming the new connections then reopening the processes box and viewing the tenon line it had a $ (dollar sign) in front of the line. Of course we all know this is a link to the other timber that will remain linked if you move the piece.
I found if you exploded the tenon link, removing the $ sign, and saved and went to the other end and used 317 to form a new connection that the connection would form. That was my solution.
I really don't understand why this works, but it does for me now.
It was very frustrating trying to make changes and not have any of the old timbers connect to the new one.
Hope this helps someone else to understand a work around to a problem that may happen to you.
Jim Rogers
Jim Rogers Timber Designs
Georgetown, MA USA
I know this forum is an international forum and laws from different countries are different than the USA. But how do you understand the copyright of design question.
I've been lead to believe that the designer holds the copyright of the design and that the customer is just paying for the printed drawings of that design, and that they don't own that design.
Any and all thoughts on this subject would be helpful.
Jim Rogers Timber Designs.
USA
Markus:
Thanks for your advice.
I'll check my program settings, once I convert from mm to inches.
Also, I've been converting almost all my drawing to black line color as I felt that's what a customer would expect to see.
I've printed some drawings with color lines on some beams and found that some colors are hard to see on the drawing paper, by me and by others. That's why I usually convert all colors to black.
Some of the beams in red, blue and green do show up nice, but the yellows and light blue don't.
Maybe it's just me.
Jim Rogers Timber Designs
To All:
When printing drawings, either shop drawings or bent views, what line weight do you use for the timber?
And what line weight do you use for the dimension lines?
Are they the same or different and why?
By line weight I mean thickness of the line.
Thanks in advance.
Jim Rogers
Jim Rogers Timber Designs
When I create a 3-d frame with all joinery in place and need a four sided drawing of one piece, I highlight that piece and hide all others. Then I save a rotated 2d view of that piece. Then I import that view into the 2d program to create a dimensioned drawing. Once that side has been dimensioned on the drawing. I return to D-CAM and rotate the piece to the next face. Save that side and import that view into the same drawing aligning it with the first. Then add the new dimension that need to be shown for that face. On and on until all for faces are done.
Or sometimes I turn on "hidden line" and dimension to them as they show threw the beam and you can see two sides from one view.
Another users copies a beam to four new locations in the air above the frame and rotates each one to a different face. Highlights them and hides all others, then saves that view and imports that into the 2-d program and dimensions them as needed.
It all depends on one's personal style or method of creating a drawing.
On my 2-d drawing of this piece I'll save a 3-d view and paste in on the page so that the timber framer can see what the joint should look like in real life. Sometimes from several different views.
I hope others will post some reasons or methods for you to review.
Jim Rogers
