Beiträge von ArgentaHans

Allo Joachim,

That's a pretty handy function. Would it work to calculate an assembly like a dormer attached? And is version 7 what I will get when I renew my updates?

Hansi

Zitat von Der_Planer

You need no markers or other processes to make parts different. I think the fastest way to separate parts, is just to rename them. With 'volume_info' you can give them names like "111/rafter_01" "...02", "...03".

caution: you must not change the number in the name ("111/..."), because the program needs it for several specific functions. Behind the slash you can write any name.

Thanks for this tip, Planer. I finally tried this manner and it suits my needs.

Thanks Gentlemen,

I was going to try the marker technique on the next project. Maybe the rumours will bring about some christmas like surprises. :band: :santa:

Thanks for the attention
Season's greetings to all. :alc:

Regards
Hansi

I know, I'm old school that way too. Fix your mistakes on your own time.
But now these days, with these kids, the company pays for mistakes. :roll:

I will adapt

Hans

Allo Planer,

It's no problem making numerous parts with the same sorting number. The problem arises when the shop people are used to old way way of doing things and that was that every timber has its special location in the frame and its unique identifying code. Which meant when you inventory the frame prior to shipping, you check off each piece individually on a list. No counting.

Imaging every car in the parking lot was the same make, model and color. How would you find a particular car? You could use a number, unless all the numbers were the same.

I've thought overnight of a different to set up my list that goes to the shop floor. I let you know if it works.

Kind Regards,
Hansi

Guten Tag out there!

Is there a quick way to get the sorting program to assign a unique sorting number to each piece in the model?

We had a situation where three identical pieces had the same sorting number and only two were made. Highly inconvenient when the time came to assemble the building. :o 8O

I've tought of placing a marker on each timber at a different location but that seems time consuming.

Any idea :idea: would be welcomed?
Regards
Hansi

I just redid my TJI roof. It took me less time to save to a new position, delete the original TJI's insert the new ones in Roof than it did to do the original way. And everything works just fine cutting wise.

Thanks for reminding me of why I bought Dietrich's. :band:

Hansi

:laola:

Well, thank you for all your input
I was wondering about that time difference. A big thumbs up for the customer support. !!! My partner often wondered what I was doing in front of the computer at 2:00

:-k The thing I like about construction is that it is humbling. Now, if we could get the walls to be square to within .001 of a degree on the construction site, y! \:D/ .

BTW. Os there an easy way to flip those dovetails, or should I delete the process and start over??

Hans

No, I didn't know about the dovetails. I just did those ones quickly for the elevation drawings. I guess the shop guys are goig to have a good laugh at my expense. :wacko:
Thanks for your help. I'll redo those TJI's in Roof and let you know how it goes.

Danke

Hansi.

I originally entered the first pair in wall design using the 5-3-7 command and inputing the correct lenght. I tried cutting a plumb cut at the peak in Wall but it wouldn't let me. So I cut them square after thinking that it might be easier to assemble on site anyway. Then in Dicam I changed their MOS. then copied them. Then I tried cutting vertically in Dicam. and now I'm here.

:idea: But come to think of it, why didn't I insert them in Roof Design? :oops: :roll:

Hi joachim

Here's my position.

Hans

Hi Joachim
you know when you go through the steps, pick the piece, choose your plane with 2 lines or 3 points and then pick your point on the plane, then it asks you which end do you wish to cut. When it works, the dialogue box for the distance to the cutting plane opens up and all is good. When I try to make a plumb cut, it quits after selecting the end you wish to cut and the highlighted piece turns off and your prompted to select the next piece for cutting. If I try just a vertical cut (3-5-2), it just deselects the piece after choosing the end of the piece to cut.

Thanks for your time

Hans

:? :? :?

I was able to cut my TJI's in the valley, but I cannot them plumb. Even with using 3-5-1. I even tried 5-5-(5,6,7) parallel to a plane. :?

Hans

Hey

I answered my own question. I used 3-5-1 instead of 3-5-2 and it worked.

Hans

Allo,

I'm trying to cut TJI's from the database. I can only cut them square.
I would like to cut them at an angle, such as a plumb cut (obolz) on a rafters.

Hans

Thanks Jason,
I'm wrapping it up. I'll look at it on Monday

Have a good weekend

Cheers

Hansi \:D/

YEAH, THAT'S WHAT I TRIED.

Hi Jason,
I hilitght the process, but it doesn't move when I press the arrow keys. & it doesn't have a $ sign in front of it

H

I don't understand :oops:
I've added a peg hole since, and visually the hole is unbroken as if the mortise does not exist.

Hansi

Guten Tag out there!

I'm inserting mortises in timbers. Most of them are working just great. Two mortises don't appear in the timber visually, but are there on the single beam info list and also light up if I use the edit process command 3-1-2. I can even edit it, but it doesn't show up.???!!! :-k

Can someone help me see the light

Danke

Hansi